Bathroom Renovation DIY Shower Niches: Shower Tile Ideas

In this video, we are going to completely remodel this ugly old pepto Bismol pink bathroom complete with a pink.

In this video, we are going to completely remodel this
ugly old pepto Bismol pink bathroom complete with a pink toilet, a paint
the entity, and a pink bath tub. We’re going to get rid of all of this
nonsense and we’re going to show you how to remodel. It would be nice
and modern and look like this. And the end result with these two
beautiful, stunning new shoes. And it starts right now. This thing belongs on
like the Smithsonian, you know [inaudible] [inaudible] yes, I’ll have to go
out like on bulk, trash, bulk, trash day. The entity. Okay, so we’ve got the mirror taped up,
ready to go, and we’re just gonna start killing
it away from the right side here. Gently rocking away from the wall at that, separating it from the black gloves.
All right, so this old pink bathtub is going,
bye bye. We’re not even going to rescue it.
We’re not going to see any down equation. It’s just go one.
So we’ve already, this is some of the hardware,
the dream. You get a bigger drain out
and you pull out the event and there’s really nothing
else to do underneath here. Luckily they didn’t submit it down. This is a iron so it is
going to be quite heavy, but we won’t have to shatter it. We’re lucky enough there’s plenty of
room to just slide it out this way. Yep.
Flip it up and take it right off the door. Dirty old tub is now sitting outside
here and it actually looks really good in this bright light.
A nice bright pink there. Lovely,
good buddy. And then underneath we got a nice mess
to sweep up and vacuum up before we can put the new tooth into place. [inaudible] and the old gray mayor,
she ain’t what she used to be. This pinky thing here is actually
going out to buy buy toilet. Yeah. So this old pink beast
is about to be removed. Okay. The old vanity has gone
and now we’re going to the wall there. We’re gonna put new angle
stops here on the water lines. Sorry, I got this tape on
here with the studs are right. I already know where they are.
But anyway, using my stud finder here and you can
see the LEDs light up right where you hit the tape. And this makes sense anyway because
the outlet boxes usually strapped to you go across the wall 16 more inches. There’s nothing until you’re
hitting this one. Okay. So you know you’ve got started there. So as long as we may chain our screws
down in the middle of the tape will be fine. And then likewise
down at the send watch here, you’ll see this in live stuff there. And then if you notice here,
this is, this is a phenomenon, they can’t find the stats and they picked
their hammer and they bang bang thing until they find it.
And so it hits a hole here and a, and the closer you get to the star,
the least at least imprint you get there. So that’s, and they didn’t
put any candidate blocking in. So if I go here and measure down the wall,
there’s nothing here. So that’s fine. We can go through the starts here to use your dilemma,
you’re going lean to the applicants, get cured valves there,
and then you have the, that’s the waste stream,
that local try
curtains down. Sort of what we’re going to do is
we have to cut it off right there, cut it right there so that it’ll
just be aimed out straight. And then we’ll have to figure out where
to cut a hole here to allow the cold water they have to fit through. And then another hole right here that
we’ll have to straddle both that thick new piece here in the smooth back. And then another hole we’ll go here in
front of this guy again, we’ll be clubs. It won’t be completely up the gates you had your bad,
their cabinet meetings. Asher didn’t give us a open back. I would have been in sometimes
with these more narrow ones though. Do this, this right here as a
TVC song. And it’s just a stream, only two handles on it.
It’s a metal string. And what we do with this and we use
this to cut PVC pipes in really confined spaces like this. So we just start and go back and forth
and back and forth after about a minute or so many cuts all the way
through the claim. All right. That’s how it works.
Really having a straight hallway, oh we have to do is clean this off. Now we’ve seen it down a little bit
to get rid of the rough edges there. I’ll put some primer on it.
Now this is the best time to put fun. Can you put the cabinet we do now is we get
this trap adapter here. This is my preferred way of terminating
lease line about this is you put this on here and they’re cemented on and
then just kind of keeps the fumes in case there’s anything. So when you’re ready to put the trap
and trap and it just slides right into there. So this is how I always terminate the
waistlines there and then these little caps, a lot of people don’t
realize the, the handles here, Phillip said we can unscrew
those and get those off. So that when we cut the round
holes on the back of that, the entity,
it will just slide right over it. So right now I’m going to
take some of this primer here and go ahead and prime
the edge of our pipe. So I just take a dip, my little cotton
swab thing in there, whatever that is, that material on the end of
it and I just go around it. Let’s make it a little simple
little bit of primer there. And uh, this is actually
required by building code. So if you’re doing a plumbing inspection, the building inspector is going to come
and look for that purple or whatever color it is you use in your area.
And if they don’t see that in there, they’re going to failure inspection
and they make you do the work twice. So the reason why you need
this primer is this cement. The PVC cement is not
as effective without it. And I’ve seen many of failures from that
and I saw somebody get thousands and thousands of dollars with a mold damage
in their condo just a few weeks ago because of this very issue. So they didn’t use primer and the two
PVC parts of the joint came apart and water leaked inside their wall for,
we don’t even know how long. Okay. So what I did was I just apply some
cement to both the part and the pipe and I pushed the part on and turn it 90
degrees and hold it in place for several seconds. And the reason why you hold
it as sometimes PVC wants to separate, it wants to push apart. So by holding it in place until
it dries your, you’re fine. So this is what are terminated
pipe like right now. And we can drill the holes
in the back of the entity is a part of the trick in
determining where to drill. The holes in the back of the cabinet is
knowing where the back of the cabinet will sit on the wall here.
No many people erroneous. Lee think that it’ll be up against here.
But that’s not true. You see this little wedge right in the
front there and this Kevin has one too. So it was, it turns out the space is going to be to
me be about three eighths of an inch by 10 you get to the back.
In fact, sometimes we make a little with
biscuits in three dimensions. So our cabinet,
this is the upper corners, so we get all of our horizontal distances
just by drawing of vertical lines. This line here comes all
the way up to that line. That’s how far it is from the edge of
the cabinet as the horizontal just as a piece of pipe. And then of course the
center waste drain line. It’s going to be that far away from the
niche. And then this one here
this morning. And then likewise we
Rosano mine’s right here, center folks. All we have to do then as measured
distance from here back up to this line, which represents the tongue.
Yeah. So we’ll get our x and y coordinates and
translate those to the [inaudible] back of the cabinet.
Okay, so we’ve transferred the measurements
to the back of the cabin and I just kind of tested and put little
pieces of blue tape. We’re going to start the holes and make
sure that they line up in front of the pipes.
Actually they do. So now we’re going to start from the
back and drill a small pilot hole through each one of them and then we’ll come
back around to the front and continue the holes with our holes. [inaudible]
yeah. [inaudible] wait, I forgot to
pull this thing off again. Yeah. [inaudible] yeah. [inaudible] all right, so here in the, in
the doubts around here, I can, you can see here we added this
other referring strip here. I wasn’t happy with what the builder
had in the corner of originally, which is barely stuck out a half inch.
You can see it there. And so I wanted to go out a little further
and give it a little better support. So I had a days and these are tap Condon
with the blue tab con screws into the concrete block wall here. Now here in Florida it is actual
building code that anytime you have wood touching exterior summit like that,
it must be pressure treated. So that is a pressure treated
piece of furring strip right there. And then this 60 inch long, two by four you see right here is going
to get mounted horizontally right around here. That’s what we call the
stringer. And that’s for the bathtub. And that is by code as well. And the plumbing inspector
with failure if you don’t have this. So if you mount your tub in place
and they don’t see that thing, when they come to inspect, they’ll
fail. You’re right on the spot. Now before we put the Tub, and we also
have to take care of this mess here, this is what the builder did.
This is completely unacceptable. This most likely would
have failed inspection. I don’t know how the season
originally got past inspection, but this is not how you fill in the
box out around the, the tub, uh, the drain in the overflow because you’re
supposed to just kind of fill it level. They’re not clump it all up like this. It’s sitting up above
the floor level here. So now there’s no way the trouble
sit flat at wants to rock. So we’re going to get rid of that. All right, so now we have some of the safe and
sound installation and we got this to put inside this wall here where the tub is
going to go. This is the interior wall. You don’t really need
to insulate this wall, but that stuff does have sound
or reduction in there too, so it’s supposed to greatly
reduce the amount of noise. So since this is the wall where
the tub is going to be sitting, we thought it would be best and they’ve
complained in this house before that there was noise coming through this wall
here, so we’re going to just stick it. These bats of soundproofing sound reducing in solution right in between
all of these studs here. Here we are. We have the Sandra
reducing installation in place here. Now it actually sounds much required
or just standing here inside the tub surround the area. It almost sounds like a kind of like an
anechoic chamber if you’ve ever been in one of those voices and bouncing around
around like it was a few minutes ago. Before we installed all of this here, we’re going to wait and install this
last piece here after we get the tub in place and then connect up to overflow
elbow there and then we’ll do a water test and make sure everything is fine before
we put up the extra soundproofing piece there. And the drywall will go
up on the backside of that wall when we’re done with this.
Now here on the, on the string or board here for the Tub, that’s that board right there that we
put up at 13 and five eighths inches off the floor as the top edge of it. So the manufacturer wants us to put beads
of silicone across the top of it and they also want us to put beads of silicon
kind of in this little area right in for the top to help it stick to
the little floor. And that’s it. Once we put the Tub and we’ll slide the
tub and sideways and we’ll put screws into every one of the studs here
with washers up against the, the lip of the tub. We’ll
do that next. All right, so now on this back wall here where we’re up against the bricks here,
this is the cement block wall. Cinder blocks here in Florida or are
building code dictates that we have to use this, this uh, silver installation
here. This song looks like aluminum, kind of like this particular
type of like a bubble, like that bubble wrap stuff you see. But it’s got the aluminum
shielding on both sides of it. So the idea is that this
air gap that’s in here, this three quarters of an inch air gap, we’ll give you a maximum of about
our four. It’s not a whole lot, but it’s better than nothing. And the ideal cases when you have a two
by four stud on the outside wall here, but they would have you do is you
would put it like in the halfway point. So there’d be like a two inch
air gap on either side of it. That’s the ideal case for this material.
But for our case here, all we have is that three
quarter inch furring strips. So we’re just going to staple these
across the front of the studs there. Before we put the, uh,
before we put our tile back, your boards on all
right here the showtime, we have the tub here ready
to get moved into place. And I wanted to just to
remind you that with the, with the tub drain here
and the overflow get, remember you’ve got to have
your gaskets on both ends there. That has to have the gas get there up
top and you absolutely have to have that gasket down below where the tub. So when you put the tub in place, the drain hole on the tub should land
directly over this and then we can screw the drain into place. And then
likewise, we’ll send her this over the, the a hole in the side of the tub
and that will be for the overflow. So immediate they before
putting in the tub, you can see in the manufacture of the
tub wants us to put this pattern of silicon call right there onto the floor
and then you can see on top of the stringer would there, they also want us to do beads of silicone
going all the way across so that when the tub here has moved in the the
overhang of the tub will rest on that and it’ll kind of mush down into it. And the cop down there on
the floor is to help cases, any unevenness in the floor or the bottom
of the tub. All right, so there are, we centered the tub over the drain
opening there, the threaded drain opening. Now we take the drain,
which is threatened here, which we’ll go into that
and it’s screw into it. You put the plumber’s putty around the
edge of it there and then we’re going to use our wrench to tighten it. So this is the ranch that we use. I highly suggest you get one of these
guys because sometimes dealing with suppliers is a pain in the butt, whereas this ranch is made specifically
to fit down into these dreams. Take. Okay, so we’re hand tightening the drain as
we thread it down as much as we can. And then we’ll use the wrench the rest
the way. And as you’re renting it down, you’ll see the putty start
to ooze out around the edge. Sure. Hey, we’re doing the water test now and
so far everything looks perfect league. All right, so now that we have
the panels are up over the tub, I wanted to point out something to you.
So if the manufacturer of your denture, very strange, d telling you to mount the board
here over the liquid comes down. And the reason why I
don’t like doing that, I’ve only disagreed with that
is it puts a bend in it outward, a little like this towards you.
And so that will create a problem. And I’ve seen many tubs and attacking
each one when we demolished it had that problem where the tiles just
come out a little bit far. So we only ended right above it,
like right on the left and we combine, we seal all of this with silicone and
then the tiles will not the titles, they’ll have a nice flat surface straight
up and down and they’ll come all the way down to the
surface. That’s the better way to do it. And we’re going to get some of the
seam tape here and we’ll tape up boldly scenes. We’re going to caulk all the
corners here and then start tiling. Now here you can see we’ve started a
cement in behind the drain pipe there. Make sure that stays nice
and solid and doesn’t move. Okay, so we got uh, the waterproofing
band is all been put in place. We use the Kirti band and we’re getting
ready to cut two holes here to put the big niches in and then we
will start tiling away. And then the drywall people showed up
and they did the skim coats and painted and it looks absolutely perfect. Now they don’t know if you can see
the the sheen on the wall there, but it looks absolutely straight and
perfect where it was all chipped with wallpaper,
shrapnel that would not come off. Okay, so we are ready to start tiling. All right,
now we have both initiatives in place. Now we can get started with the first
tile are going to start on the back wall on the left corner on the back
and work our way to the right. And then the two side walls
will come out from there. We’ll have to drill the hole around hole
and the tile that goes around the tub spout right here.
All right, here we get some tiles going up against
the first two rows going up and we’re starting to put up some of the,
uh, the Ron deck frame around the,
the niches. These are our bizzle pieces
that we’re putting in here. So we’re moving right along and it’s
slow going at first because this piece right here, the first one you put
in as the most important piece, you have to make sure that it’s
not leaning out like this or that. It’s not leaning back and you’ve got to
make sure it’s perfectly straight up and down and then you’re going to make
sure that the level of this way. So when you lay your level all the
way across all three tiles there, it should be smack Dab.
Perfect. And then when you flip your level around
and smack it against the face of all three of them, they should be completely flat
across across the top here. It should be like a plane.
All right, so we’re doing the niche here now
and we’re using their Kirti Ron deck. So just that I pause real quick. So what we’re doing is we embed them into
the Vincent loader here and then we’ll come back and trial some morning right
over the top of it there before we put the next set of tiles over him. [inaudible] [inaudible] wish progression actually up
to wall and wake up to you. She has done will be growing
in our next step. But yeah, this turned out pretty nicely for us. We’re very happy with this here and it
was a good idea that we came up with here to come past the edge of the tub. You know most people end their tile
right at the tub and then we did the sidewall here. Yeah and likewise on this side here we decided also to carry the tile all
the way across the wall here and pass the door retitled all the
way around the door here. So we have just a few
more pieces to go up top. You’re in the right hand corner and you
feel the tiles will be done and ready for. We’re very, very pleased with these glass mosaics here on the niche
initiatives came out pretty nice here. That was a brand new
faceted glass that we saw ready to start grounding. Now we ever sponge already there and
we’re going to be using my color pillows and say
finance crickets. So this replaces those fee sanded
and Valencia in the ground. And this is a rapid setting.
So the only issue with this stuff as you, you don’t want to mix the whole
bag if want to speak to it. It has a pot life of about 30 minutes, 45 minutes to [inaudible]. So working with walls,
I do it in batches. I’d like to mix about maybe
half the bag and go from there. So I’ll start grounding and then our
buddy will come behind me after about five minutes after me and start washing off. Yes, all the issues have been brought in. We get them to add a little more
like clean them off a little better and the granite guys today showed up
with the sink and the granite and install them onto our cabinets here.
This is a gorgeous pattern here. Got a little bit of
hints of Blue Right here, goes off the darker gray here and they
also made the backsplash for us as well. But this really mixed
the bathroom right now [inaudible] so we had them drill the widespread holes. We’re going to get a widespread faucet, so that means there are eight
inches separated from mail, from the cold water to the hot water and
it’s usually three separate pieces of hot water here.
Cold water here in the faucet here. Those sponsors usually cost about
anywhere from 90 to hundred dollars, which is double the price
of the the four inch. Oh here we are in the next day and
the crowd has dried. It looks nice. Now we’re just going
to caulk in the corners and of course in some of the
parts of the niche there. Go ahead and brought up the,
we’ve got it. Those were going to call in the
corners of the knishes well there, but overall this looks really nice, very classy looking and matches
the it was put in over here, compliments it very nicely. You can see how a really great idea to
go ahead and tile all the way around the doorway.
Okay, so after tiling this whole
shower surround area here, we’re finally ready to test out
the new shower head and a new vamp. So
let’s give it a shot. I’m just trying to show your mom.
That’s how you do it. The right angle. So now we’re going to do the water
test and I always got to lay down paper towels that will show you lots of water. There should be zero, not one drop.
Okay, so the water’s been running a few minutes.
Now. I usually like to run
it for about 10 minutes, because sometimes it can take awhile.
You might have a leak that’s very, very, very, very slowly, and it might take
a while for it to rear its ugly head, because remember, the water’s
continuously streaming through this whole [inaudible] [inaudible] [inaudible].

5 thoughts on “Bathroom Renovation DIY Shower Niches: Shower Tile Ideas”

  1. ✅ Parts and Tools used in this bathroom renovation video:

    ✅ Dripless 10oz Ergonomic Caulk Gun:

    ✅ Cramer Fugi Kit:

    ✅ Delta Nura In2ition Shower Kit see in this video:

    ✅ Milwaukee 13-Piece Hole Dozer Hole Saw Kit:

    ✅ Precision Sensors Stud Finder Professional LED Profinder:

  2. I see you have kurdi strips, where’s the kurdi mesh?? Waterproofing over the hardy backer…don’t see any?

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