DIY Knob Repair (Updated Video Available)

Today’s project is to repair a couple of knobs we have them around the house for things like barbeque grills.

Today’s project is to repair a couple of knobs we have them around the house for things
like barbeque grills you find them in automobiles, TVs, radios, etc. These came off some appliances. I had a Subaru and I think it was a friend’s
Mitsubishi or Nisan, I can’t remember These are twist knobs. This one is supposed to have a metal band around it Which got lost. There’s a piece right there and and again there’s supposed to be a metal band holding this together but it’s gone this one has had a rough life I don’t know if you can see, it’s cracked right in there good crack around here on this side as well It’s got 3 cracks in it. Anothr right there It’s not doing the job done when you twist it. It just splits apart, then there’s this other piece that’s broken off. I really gotta go through and fix them because usually you can’t find them can’t buy them anywhere, so you’ve got to fix them Besides I can probably fix them faster than spending a day out looking to buy them Let’s get started The tools needed are nothing really special. Some epoxy. I
strongly recommend slow dry epoxy Thread, a small pipe you can get like a hobby shop. Maybe you have it at home. It needs to be clean I would not recommend using anything
from like a bug spray can or anythng poisonous Because we’re… I’ll talk to you about
that in a second. Sandpaper to clean up the plastic. Old scissors, a piece of cloth to reattach this ear Drill bits are nice. I’ll show you why, we will use those for spacers you don’t have to use drill bits but l will go into that in a second, you need something to to space this hole because when you
start to wrap it it will squeeze this hole shut and you want to make sure it’s not too far shut Those are our tools, again nothing special. Most are easy to find or maybe you already have around the house This type of know goes on a shaft that has a flat spot on it and looks like that, you’ve probably seen one and what we need to do is we need to find a object about the same
size… This one is little bit too big. About the same size as from the upper surface here to the lower surface, if it’s a little bit bigger that’s OK What we don’t want is a little bit smaller so anyway, we’re going to use this drill bit and we’re going to place it in here when we’re wrapping it up so the ferrule is not squeezed shut because if the feral is too tight it will not go back on the on the shaft. so we need something to hold it at the right size and that is what the drill bit is used for To hold the ferrule at the right size while we are wrapping it. The next step is if you have any broken
pieces that came out to of the ferrule this part right here If you have broken pieces glue them back in there doesn’t that be glued in really strongly, you just want them held in place because when we start to work we don’t want to have to fiddle around with that we want
to make sure that everything is in place and all we have to do is wrap. That will keep us busy enough. This piece came out right there, it’s hard to see It came out of that spot, I’m going to glue that in off camera As you can see the broken piece has been place in here it’s not quite dry. I can’t start, but what we want is, we want all the pieces glued in place doesn’t have to be
real strong just, they just have to be there so that when we start to repair it, it does not fall apart The drill bit is placed inside there to make sure that this is not squeezed shut. You can see that this has gaps in there. We want to make sure
that this hole is not squeeze shut or it will never go back on the shaft and we will have to start over The first trick is to get the thread through this little tube. How you do that is to start the thread in one end just a little bit and then you suck on the other end and keep feeding it in there obviously that’s why you want a clean tube. Not from something poisonous. Never suck something directly in to your mouth you hold this thing sideways to your mouth, not straight in like this.Hold it off to the side And suck it in that way. Again don’t choke yourself make
sure the the tube is not poisonous nothing else in the tube Don’t do anything foolish, but you up get the string through the tube and
that is step one You are going to say, “Wait, that’s not a drill bit”. You’re right, but I found this wooden dowel that’s a better fit for the shaft and it’s a better spacer and it’s also a little bit
shorter which helps when I’m wrapping it it will be out of the way There’s no hard and fast rule on it, drill bits are nice because they come in all sorts of sizes but in this case I found something better gonna so I’m going with that. Here’s how we do. Take some epoxy put it on the ferrule should probably be wearing rubber gloves because I’m going to put my finger in this You’re not supposed to. Strongly recommend gloves or something Then we take our string and begin to wrap it Like this, keep a little tension on the string and try to make beautiful, consistent wrappings There we go, a little better that time This is why I recommend you use slow drying epoxy. Keep that thread tight OK right to the edge. Now I’m going to rub the epoxy into the thread Like that… Then I’m going to put another layer on there Not always necessary. The stronger you
want it the more layers you use. Now go back the other way. It’s best if you can lay the thread right next to the previous layer (turn) This is why I recommend the slow drying epoxy. Take your time get it right Don’t bang the camera When you get that work done take a little more epoxy put a nice coating over the outside, make it smooth Make sure that the thread is soaked with epoxy that the thread has absorbed the epoxy, it’s worked down in to the thread That’s it. Put it aside over night and let it harden the other one same technique Layer of epoxy where you are going to wrap Keep it in focus Not enough epoxy Keep the thread taught Start wrapping it around there typically you want to use the fewest layers possible. Sometimes there are some issues with a amount of space around this shaft and if you get to too thick it won’t go back
in there into the appliance okay Come out to the end Drifting off camera Once again, coat the threads with a layer of epoxy. Really work it in there Like that Again I should not be using a bare finger, should use gloves or something That’s about it. Clean it up a bit Easier to clean it up when it’s wet. OK that’s that for the windings The next step is to replace
this broken piece And what I’m going to use are some little strips of cloth and I’m going to put them in the epoxy, the get them all gooped up, put them in here This is going to help hold the epoxy to be a to the plastic and it’s going to add reinforcement It’s a little bit like carbon fiber but I’m usig a piece of linen okay so I will get started with that and do a little of that off camera and then
I’ll get back and show you The first step is to glue it together like this and you can see where I roughed it up with sandpaper and down in there also The next step is to lay those strips down in there I’ve got some strips of cloth to show you, like this it’s cloth that I rubbed with wet epoxy Those I will put in there next. I will do that off camera; it’s terribly messy and I don’t want to get on the camera if you’ll forgive me I’ll be back
shortly As you can see, I’ve taken those cloth strips that are soaked with epoxy and pushed them down in there Stuck them to the surface Probably going to add a little bit more epoxy in this since I’ve got it Better to use it rather than throw it away but This is pretty much the basic of it This is how I’m going to let it set up. I’m going to have to clean some out of the hole here but Rather do that later. Don’t want
to fuss around with it too much until it’s hardened This one has set up. Remove the spacer. Cut that string. Cut that string, remove those. I can clean this stuff out of here Not necessary but as you can see what I’ve got is this band of reinforced fiber polyester threat but OK the it pretty much like carbon fiber
fiberglass whatever you want to call it but it is very
strong and it’ll work really well. You can sand this down. As long as you don’t get in the thread That’s pretty much it for this one. okay let’s look at the other one This is the other know. As you can see here’s where the crack was along here. Probably spray paint it black
to make it beautiful and this side not so beautiful but it is functional. If I had more epoxy I’d fill this in
to make it smooth You can see the cracks are all closed up around here I’ve got this wound up on here It’s about as strong as steel On this one I left some lumps of epoxy which took a lot of sanding to get down. Wish I’d not done that. It’s a lot easier to work with when it’s wet. I should have just smoothed it out perfectly functional for an outside gas grill and I don’t care so much how it looks. That’s how it will look when it’s operating. That’s pretty much it. Hope you found it interesting and useful

17 thoughts on “DIY Knob Repair (Updated Video Available)”

  1. Thanks for putting this tip up. I never thought about using thread and epoxy together. It's going to help me with this type of fix plus others.THX!

  2. Found replacement knobs for my stove top for 33 BUCKS! Been gluing the 3 broken knobs together every other week til I found a better price on them. Now I can fix them and spend my hundred bucks on something else!

  3. Good vid, The tube and string are a great idea. I just did a repair on my car's heater & fan control. However I did not use string so wanted to add my two cents here:

    On my car there is a spindle with a flat side that the knobs engage with. The plastic knobs have a small metal insert that fits the spindle. After the plastic broke, I found a T-Nut in the junk draw, (the pronged kind you pound into wood). Which was almost the size of the spindle. I sanded the back of the knobs flat. Removed the prongs from the nut. Sanded the back of the knobs flat. Epoxied the flat of the t-nut to the knob. Then epoxied the insert from the knobs into the shaft. Alignment is tricky, I used a sliver of wood to move the insert and then jammed it in the epoxy to cure in place. Managed to keep clear enough of the plastic to still see the pointer at night.


  4. very clever. what if the pieces to the knob hole are gone and you only have one side of the cracked/broken piece? its for a small heater that has a shaft that is flat on one side. that is the side of the knob that is missing. the rounded shaft part is there. half the shaft is missing.

  5. +tsbrownie…. Nice video. You are a good teacher! Instructions are very clear and concise. Thank you very much for your time and efforts. God bless you and your family.

  6. If the inner shaft of the knob is cracked vertically down the shaft, try a 3/8" inner diameter lock washer around it. Worked for me! I didn't need glue or anything else. I have a GE stove that has cheap plastic knobs with no metal inserts in the shaft- and they want $30 per for the same cheap knob! I put lock washers on the other three knobs as preventative measure.

  7. hi I have a hot point stove an the knob for the back burner on your left side won't turn can someone help me not seeing my problem on you tube

  8. Thanks, it will help a lot for a fix on my old samsung re570d microwave heat knob .. .. but …
    I'm not sure if i'm gonna open it as that's verry dangerous

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *