How to Remove Old Bottom Paint the EASY WAY? Heat gun? Sanding? Sandblasting? Patrick Childress #40

today we reconnect the head stay strip all bottom paint and what power tools we use well as you can.


today we reconnect the head stay strip
all bottom paint and what power tools we use well as you can see Patrick’s been doing
a ton of work to the bottom of the boat more than we ever expected to do but
it’s all for good reasons so um because we’re getting ready to
cross the Atlantic Ocean and go to Uruguay and not sure I want to go much
more south than that because it sounds awful cold I mean I have my requirements
I offered her a water bottle she’s very sensitive to the cold that wasn’t very well received and
he says how about we just cuddle underneath the blankets all the time
every day anyway Rebecca is actually been researching a lot of heating system
propane diesel you name it so we’ll see what we eventually can wind up with but
in the meantime I’ve been getting all the paint off the bottom of this boat in
preparation for new bottom paint so let’s get started I’ll show you what
we’ve been doing normally if we are going to be hauled out for a week or two
and I had to disconnect the head and inner forstay to fit on the travel
lift I would just let them hang off to the side and rely on the spinnaker
halyard and the running pole topping lift to help hold the mast in place but since
we’re going to be here for months and months we really don’t know how long I
want it to put the headstay back in place by putting the head stay back into
its chain plate and going to the back Stay turnbuckle first I pull the two
cotter pins and then unscrew the barrel of the turnbuckle just as far as it will
go without losing the back stay I want to keep some threads inside of that
barrel but that’ll make it as loose as possible so the mast will go forward
bend forward fairly easily so I have the spinnaker halyard fastened at the front
of the boat and cranked down tight and the running pole topping lift is also very
tight against its bridle which is fastened to the bases of two lifeline
stanchions all of this to help pull the mast forward just as much as possible so
that we can set the clevis pin back into the chainplate and then I have a block
and tackle setup here to the Anchor keeper pulling everything
forward and down to get that sag out of the head stay and now I have
it almost aligned it’s got to come down on the block and tackle just a little
more another half inch first I ease the tension off of the jib halyard then
tightened down a little bit more on the block and tackle and that gave me just
the alignment I needed to slip the clevis pin in place and put the cotter
pin back in its hold to hold everything securely while we’re hauled out and for
the next several months the staysail will just hang off to the side out of
the way till we get back into the water there are a lot of projects to be
completed on this boat over the next several months but the two most major
projects is to prepare the bottom for the application of Coppercoat, a very
special antifouling product but that means I need to remove all the old
antifouling and completely prepare the hull very especially for that
application and at the same time I’ll be digging into all of these resin blisters
above and below the waterline and treating those and making everything
nice solid and secure for future travels across the Atlantic and and we’ll see
how far south we get but the first major problem is to get rid of all that
antifouling paint I really wanted to have the boat sandblasted quick and easy
but sandblasting operations here had made such a tremendous mess of all the
surrounding boats that they don’t allow sandblasting of boats anymore so I had
visions of hand scraping with large two-handed scrapers like Brian Rolfe did
on his 27 foot boat Tarka the adventurers of Tarka a very fun youtube
channel although those scrapers are available anywhere in the US and just
about anywhere throughout the Caribbean the largest scraper I could find in
South Africa was this triangular scraper it just would not do so we had to check
into other alternatives other methods we tried this
but this paint is just far too soft it would just plug up 36 grit sandpaper
instantly and so sanding was not an option to remove the bottom paint so we
went out and bought two electric paint strippers warning warning using a heat
gun to remove the bottom paint is Questionable and you should do research
yourself if this is the best method to remove antifouling paint from your
sailboat damage to underlying gel coat is a major concern especially with the
heatgun in the wrong hands due to the area being overheated the substrate
below may also be affected there are also carcinogenic fumes that are created
when bottom paint is heated so removing it on a windy day is best
removal with the lowest possible heat setting is preferable
these are heaters high temperature heaters that will melt the paint and you
follow right behind with scrapers and just scrape the adult and paint off of
the boat a very time-consuming but it was a good thorough method to get most
of it off this would take at least two weeks of continuous work for two and
sometimes three men operating the powerful tools so it starts out slow but
with a little practice each person gets their own routine their own method their
own way of doing it and they just keep at it all day and on this one all those white spots in
the off-white spot those are digs there it’s gone a little too deep but it’s
unavoidable no matter how much practice you have so once all four or five layers
antifouling paint is off we’ll go back and sand this we won’t have to smoothen
out all of those digs that is not into gel coat this boat doesn’t have gel coat
that’s an epoxy layer but these guns are so hot it’s possible to melt your way
right through the whole boat if you’re not careful so after all the antifouling
paint all the different layers that was removed from the bottom of this boat I
took a closer look at the remaining red layer of paint what bits of it there was
and I could see that there was repairs and patches to the boat this fairing
compound had been placed over that red and as an experiment I took a rag of
acetone and wiped the red paint and much to my surprise it came off in the rag
that is not a good sign if this was any kind of a substantial barrier coat it
shouldn’t be coming off with acetone so this is a major complication I’m going
to be putting all kinds of epoxy fillers and epoxy barrier coat back over this
entire hull so I need a good substrate like this white area that I really
cleaned up and this means we have to go back and grind everything and get all of
the red off and down to just the white Epoxy barrier coat
Sip was just an amazing man he could run that 7 inch grinder overhead all day
and hardly ever take a break and at the end of the day he still wouldn’t be
tired so Sip and I both got in here with that 7 inch grinder and spent two days
just grinding away with 36 grit paper to remove the rest of that red paint and
then we’d go over the whole thing with a random orbit sander and 40 grit paper
and that would smoothen everything out get it down to a nice white consistency
and I think then ready for any other touch-ups in the way of filling up the
ding and gouges which there weren’t many by
the time we finished sanded with the 40 grit paper why they’re such a massive
epoxy barrier coat on this hull is that about 18 years ago the entire hull from
the waterline down was peeled and re- Fuberglassed that was a process to take care
of some of the hull blisters at that time but obviously some of them have
reappeared and that’s what I’m dealing with on this haul out these are most of
the power tools that we have used while doing the bottom work on this boat all
the sanding and it’s smoothing out of things but it all starts with this
transformer the change is 110 to 240 in these four countries it can be anywhere
in the range of 220 to 240 volts or from 240 to 110 any international boat really
has to sail with this tool if you bring American tools with you or if you’re a
foreigner like an Australian going to America and you intend to do any work so
if your home bought tools don’t match the local AC current this will
straighten it out for you so anytime we go into a new region with AC 240 current
I have to change plugs this is a plug from Southeast Asia now
we’re in South Africa so I changed the plug over so I can plug into their
outlet here there’s a switch on the back I can go from 240 to 110 and I can plug
in my american-made power tools here on this side I take over 220 volts aside so
that I and anybody else who helps will not be plugging the power tool my 110
power tool into the 220 by mistake and it just makes it run twice as fast and
you can’t slow the darn thing down it hasn’t burned it out but we have only
made that mistake for very short periods of time if you plug anything electronic
like a battery charger a 110 battery charger into the 240 side ZAPPO.. you’ll
hear it pop and that Chargers will be no good anymore blows out the circuit
right away move over to the porter-cable the seven-inch disc size porter-cable i
bought this back in when was that 1987 and did a lot of grinding on houses prep
rate prepping them for painting and it’s still good
several years ago about five years ago when were hauled out in kudat on the
very north end of the island of Borneo a bearing gave out inside here and I
thought the machine was dead but Rebecca went down to a local tiny little
hardware store they had the bearing that goes inside and the same day I had it
functioning again so a lot of these tools you think they’re dead because the
berries burn out or the brushes burn out you might smell them burning electrical
fire and they stopped working simple replacement of the parts get them
going again I like this tool it normally comes with
a handle I don’t know what happened to it we never really used that side handle
anyway we just hang on to it like this but there’s a backing plate here paper sometimes it isn’t stiff enough I’ll put
on two pieces of sandpaper and really make it stiff for the type of grinding
that I want to do normally you only use the outer 1/3 of the disc you don’t hold
this flat against the surface just the outer 1/3 and you don’t really want to
use just the outer tip either it’s a waste of paper then there are times when
I really need a flexible piece of paper on here to get into grooves and I’ll
just put the paper without this backing plate onto this little backing rubber
pad here and that way this disc can really fold into places and get a nice
curved surface where we need it very versatile in Porter cable made in America
out of other countries they’ve never heard of that brand this is something I
bought in 1987 also a rant porter-cable random orbit sander it’s done a tremendous
amount of work over the past 12 years on the bottom of this boat and these Velcro discs that go on the front here… this is a six inch disc so it’s very very efficient in just
the other week after all these decades of use like I say 1987 I bought this
thing the bearing went out inside here and then there again I thought being
american-made here we are halfway around the world the local repair shop had the
bearing to fix it with a lot of these parts internal parts are universal so as
soon as I drop this off at the shop to be fixed I went out and bought this one
because we had to keep working yeah this is the bosch 6-inch random orbit sander
it is 220 volt and the guys who have been working on this boat they seem to
like this one better than the porter-cable it’s a little faster a
little more aggressive in the way it sands and it also has a dust collection
on the back but we never use that of course we don’t have a good vacuum to
set it up but that possibility is there where the Porter Cable doesn’t have a
dust collection system all these tools we carry on the boat it all stuffed away
somewhere this palm sander is great for getting into tight places it’s good for
paint prep especially on wood work this is a gen tools I never heard of gen
tools I bought it used up in Kudat when we were hauled out and I’m very
surprised I mean the price of of it it certainly cheap on it and I’m surprised
it’s still working after all this time this angle grinder is almost as old as
the other two discs Sanders and I started out using this with a masonry disc
just to kind of dig into some of these bubbles and and blisters but being such
a stiff disc it’s hard for me to get a nice contour I would have to go back and
sand it with a random orbit sander or something else to help smooth and out
and round out the contour… a smoother less aggressive disc would certainly do
a better job when we decided that we had to heat strip the four or five layers of
antifouling off of this boat I just went out and bought the cheapest heat
guns because it was going to be a one job use it seemed like all the heat
settings amongst the brands were really the same so I just went with price and
it lasted through the job I have no more use for them now they’ve paid for
themselves I feel this is 220 of course since I bought it locally here in South
Africa uses their two prong South African plugs which is strange because
you can’t plug this in to a wall outlet you have to use this kind of a plug so
it takes an adaptor plug this into here and now I can plug it into the extension
cord or a wall outlet my 110 deWalt boy this is an oldie too but I used this for
putting in a wire wheel for cleaning up bronze fittings through holes also the
prop strut in the English steel rudder shaft but it’s also good for using these
little links the drum Sanders put these in here and I can get a nice contour in
different areas then there’s different sizes I got these actually had a shop
that sells a dremel tools the good variety of tools is what you
need for doing this kind of work like I say these tools go with this everywhere
and they’ve all more than paid for themselves . So Sip, who’s the best person
you ever worked with? Who me? yeah. Well you! me? yeah! No…. why is that? because
your good boss , good pay! yeah? yeah! I might have to give you a raise next year!! Oh that would be good…Id thank you for that! That would be good! of course we just reversed that . Yeah you the good boss! WELL, if you ever come to Richards Bay you need a good help, come talk to Sip!
that’sit…yeah don’t forget miss miss Rebecca inside here! next time we find
that for decades there has been something quite missing from our keel
and we’ll see what other projects we have made major advances on also up in
the video description there is a link to a tip jar if you don’t mind helping out
thank you very much and we’ll see you next time

53 thoughts on “How to Remove Old Bottom Paint the EASY WAY? Heat gun? Sanding? Sandblasting? Patrick Childress #40”

  1. "Not easy to Do" is quite the understatement. Bottom paint removal has got to be one of the worst diy jobs on a sailboat. Also one of the most toxic.

  2. If anyone has any ideas for a heating system…please leave your ideas below! I need to be warm (This is Rebecca) Let us know too, if you enjoyed the idea of a “premier” or if it was a waste of time…

  3. I have a power planer that I used to strip bottoms. You have to be careful but if done correctly it is fast and clean compared to most.

  4. Interesting "jack stands" supporting your boat. It looks scary to me. Are you and Rebecca living on board during this haul out?

  5. That plug for the Ryobi heat gun wasn't a South African one but rather a European plug. The SA ones have the round bits lower down as you discovered.

  6. I needed a bucket of elbow grease but the yacht shop at the ZYC was fresh out. I guess it was you who cleared the shelves.

    Tom Sawyer could have offered you some tips on how to source cheap labour… but maybe yachties are more canny than Hannibal Missouri ragamuffins…

  7. Patrick…I am now fairing the 52 hours it took me to grind the whole hull, on my channel…I know what you guys went through LOL…I am also going to coat the bottom with Copper Coat… How many coats did you apply?…great channel…you guys are very enjoyable to watch…cheers and favorable winds!

  8. For heat. Diesel, stove/bulkhead mount if you want heat, Dickenson/Reflex. Forced air diesel heater is smaller but comes with an annual maintenance chore, Webasto/Eberspaecher. Propane, NOT, not enough Btu per pound carried!
    Cheers

  9. The best system ever made is the Eberspachter or Wabasto are the only options to go for both diesel air heaters some options can do hot water too, don’t do the cheap copies, a suggestion is have a service kit for them as a spare and even in the summer start it once a month to keep it clean and working well

  10. Webasto/Esper/Esbacher one of the diesel air heaters. The hydronic (circulating hot water) systems are more efficient but lots more work to install and run plumbing all over the boat. The hot air systems are used in buses and trucks all over the world. They dry heat is heavenly. But do carry spares and a manual! And being able to feed off your one diesel tank is wonderful.

  11. West Systems: Epoxy will start to disintegrate from 60 degrees C (140 Fahrenheit for our American friends). A heat gun will put out up to 450 degr C

  12. Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks! What are you covering your teak cap rails, eyebrows, and handrails with and how often do you need to recoat them?

  13. Amazed you still have so many 110 tools/fittings. Most people might have adapted to the world by now! 😋.

  14. Another fun video….wow, amazing amount of hull work! You almost need an entire Home Depot tool department to get it done! Enjoyed all the comments…Heat, I am with Patrick on the warm body, but yeah Rebecca, not every night. I will be looking soon also so will follow your direction. Thanks, safe travels, Andrew

  15. Patrick, try using automotive sanding discs , the brown/purple discs are designed to sand timber , automotive discs are white in colour and are designed for sanding painted surfaces and as such don't load on the disc

  16. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253955267177

    Check out this heater. Add $100 For duct n elbows. Your set. EasyPeasy

  17. After research we installed a Wallace Diesel heater. Based on diesel consumption and electrical usage. WE chose the one step down from the largest one based on the above criteria. Our boat is in the PNW and find that it works well on our 1989 Hunter legend 40. Good luck!

  18. That gem tools orbital sander is a makita…I have the same…just yours has a different name…had mine 20 yrs and still going strong.

  19. Sorry I don't have much info on heating systems but there is a trick to not guming up the sand paper. They make these giant rubber erasers that are called abrasive cleaning sticks. They pay for themselves with the savings in sandpaper. https://thd.co/2wHiyvI

  20. Hi Patrick and Rebecca, there was an interesting video interview with some of the GGR 2018 finishers. Some used the wrong paint and had terrible trouble , van de heede used Awlgrip brand different layers that abliatively washed off so he had better one for cold southern ocean and tropics. But mark slats used coppercoat. He was very happy with it. But it was badly applied , there is some comments here at 39:00. https://youtu.be/mfb5DdAEiisI ….good luck a lot of work. A good epoxy bottom job is only good for a few years unfortunately. ( as you know the peel work did not last for ever) Here is a short post I did about an article in the West System magazine Epoxyworks about redoing bottoms but one of their long time tech people . https://warren149.wordpress.com/2018/09/21/blister-repair/ Cheers Warren

  21. Dickenson diesle heaters are great, use very little fuel. They also make the same heater but uses short pieces of wood, great in most areas but artic regions. About $800 US Cheers Steve h.

  22. The next time you have a need to remove a clogging material consider using ZEC Abrasive discs. These discs have a construction that copes with clogging by slowly sacrificing grit, and the ribbed layup of the grit works to flush dust away from the cutting surfaces.

  23. super video Patrick. Anyone, please help us promoting the sailing community in Austria by subscribing our channel :)! any feedback is welcomed

  24. Wet sandblasting would have cleaned that up in about 3 hours and wouldn't have caused a problem with nearby boats as all blast media falls straight down.

  25. You will be welcome in Uruguay, let us know when that will happen, I will be waiting for you in Piriapolis, o whatever other port you choose…..I supose you won't come on stright rhumb, you will have head winds almost all the time. Have joy!

  26. We have done that same job of stripping bottom paint a couple of times, I must admit I don't like it, but muy sons hate it.
    By the way, if you need some help on spanish translations, I'll be honored to help, even my english isn't excellent, will try my best. "Tip Jar" in spanish would be "Tarro de propinas". When you write "Tarro de consejos" you are talking about "advice jar"…funny!

  27. Solid fuel stove is the most simple and basic. No electricity use. No cost for diesel or propane. No risk of fuel leaks. If stove has a window, the cheery ambience of a flickering flame Is restful.
    And comforting.
    On the other hand there has to be a suitable location to store the solid fuel so it keeps dry and doesn’t get buggy. Pressed logs and pellets are best. Coal has the most heat per cubic foot.
    Good luck with your project. Gary on APOLIMA

    Sent from my iPad

  28. The key to eliminating soot is to make sure the stove draws air well. This requires an exhaust stack high enough and a Charlie Noble that works from all angles relative to the wind to prevent back drafts and rain . Stack can be removed and capped while underway. We are headed back to Mexico from the Marshalls in August non stop. With some regret.

  29. It is a term used by fishermen on the wesr coast of Canada. It is a sort of cap fixed to the top of the smoke pipe to prevent rain ingress and to prevent wind gusts from blowing down the stack. Lots of different designs. Gary

  30. Hang a currten off your toe kick all the way the boat. You can make it long and seal it up to the pavement. Then sand blast it. Its the only way. Invest in a good cutain, that the blast should have one..

  31. You need to get rid of those outdated tools for Milwaukee 18 volt cordless tools. The multi tool with a scraper blade would have buzzed that bottom paint off in a day! Couple of 6 or 9 ah batts and a charger and your good.

  32. dry ice blasting with vacuum cover which only blast max half sq foot slow but good way if labor is expensive

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