How To Repair Tubeless Tyres | MTB Maintenance

– We often talk about tubeless tires as giving the best all-round off-road performance for a mountain bike, for a.

– We often talk about tubeless tires as giving the best all-round
off-road performance for a mountain bike, for a few reasons. Firstly, you’re removing the weight of an inner tube from that tire and replacing it with some sealant. That sealant patches up small
holes whilst you’re riding and of course, there’s a decreased chance of damaging anything by
running at lower pressures. You’re not gonna really
get a pinch puncture which could happen with inner tubes. However, they’re not invincible and you still can get punctures, and this is how you fix them. Now, there are a few different ways you can actually patch up a tubeless tire such as this one here. The very basics you’re gonna
need is a tubeless repair kit, so that involves having
this little reaming tool for reaming out the hole,
make sure it’s big enough to apply, one of these
little tubeless plugs, often called ropes or
slugs and stuff like that. They’re basically a super
sticky soft rubber compound worm that sits on this prong,
and you effectively stab it into the hole. Now, you often see racers
using things like this because it’s a really fast
way of plugging that hole and getting back on the trail, but they don’t make a permanent fix when you use them on their own, so we’re gonna show you
a few other techniques for making a bit more of a permanent fix, and to do that, you’re
gonna need to build yourself your own little kit that will suit you, based on these, combined with
some vulcanizing solution from your other puncture repair kits, and even some bigger rubber tire patches. Let’s just talk a little
bit about the types of puncture you’re likely
to get with a tubeless tire. Now, in extreme cases, you
can split the sidewall, and if that happens, then
it’s a totally different fix. If that happens when you’re on a trail, it’s pretty much game over, and you’re gonna have to
put an inner tube in there. so we’ve got a really cool
fix for that coming up later in this video, but the day-to-day
ones you’re likely to get will be on the main tread of the tire, and they’ll be from small sharp things, be it little bits of flint or rock, sometimes sticks and brambles, thorns, anything like that that
can penetrate that casing. And what tends to happen is,
they will actually come out as you’re riding, leaving an exposed hole. Now, the beauty of the tubeless system is all down to the sealant
that you use with it, so the tire itself will
seal and you can set them up with no sealant in if
you really wanted to, but the sealant is actually
the key to the system. So this particular one is
a latex style solution, so it’s quite milky solution
and it’s got rubber particles suspended, sort of floating in that stuff. Now, with centrifugal force,
it sticks to the outside of the tire so basically
as you start getting those small punctures,
the actual liquid part of the sealant acts as a carrier and gets those particles into the hole, and then congeals much
like blood platelets would when they’re congealing
like to form a scab. It’s exactly the same process. And of course there’s
differing sizes of holes and you can see that this
will only take effect on smaller holes. So with the small holes, I’m actually gonna show you what happens and show you how it
actually seals the job, because you will notice from time to time little white specks around your tires, and that is just the
sealant doing its job. It’s sealing those little holes on the go, the sort of holes that
would have had you sat on the side of the trail,
getting your inner tube out and fixing it. Now, depending on what
type of sealant you have, the amount that you put in your tires, and the conditions you
ride in, A: a hot climate, or a cold climate, your
sealant will naturally dry up after a while. Now, there’s a few on
the market that do claim that they will never
dry up, but typically, the more effective ones
like the latex-based ones. They do kind of have a sell by date because the nature of the work
it means they will dry up. So, before we actually go
worrying about all those punctures you’re gonna need to
make sure you stay on top of the sealant in your tires. Now, generally, you can hear
it sloshing around a bit on the inside, and if that’s the case, you can just monitor when
you’re not hearing that anymore, it’s probably time to
add a bit more in there. You can obviously manually
check by removing part of your tire and actually
having a look inside there, and of course that gives
you the opportunity to put some fresh sealant inside. Now, I actually personally
prefer to inject straight into the valves,
it’s a bit less messy, and I do tend to replace my seals, top it up a couple times a year, just as a routine thing,
especially if you’ve had quite a warm season. Now, I’m just gonna
remove my valve core here and demonstrate to you
how easy that process is. Especially, actually with these valves. These are the MilKit valves. There also used by DT
on their wheels, now. And part of the system
is when you remove the cord, you don’t lose your time pressure. So, this is quite cool. You literally inject
straight into the system there. Don’t lose any time pressure. Put the cord back in. Good to go. So, I just want to
simulate what would happen if you’re riding along
the trails and you do get a small puncture. So, I’m just going to use this. You’ll pick it to just puncture the casing of the tire. And as I put it out,
you’ll probably see a bit of mist. You’ll give it a
spin-around and hopefully it seal that up. (air hisses) Bit of a mist there. There we go. And as you can see,
there is a blob of white latex there, as it’s been
forcing the particles through to conjure it. Now as you continue
riding, that becomes a bit more of a permanent fix on there, and it will continue to seal that hole. Now, there’s various
different sizes of the rubber tire plug you
can get on the market. Ranging from super, super thin, which are actually excellent, these ones, because they do deal with most holes. Slightly bigger, and then the huge ones you tend to get for Motocross bikes. You might get (inaudible)
because they’re going to suit different size holes, but you’re going to find
it’s going to be the smaller ones you’ll use most of the time. So, it’s always worth having a couple of these set up, really. Have the small one and have a medium one. Keep them in your
puncture kit, in your bag, in your bike; somewhere easy to get to, so if you do have to do
this out on a trail… (puncture sound) … easy to jab in and continue riding. Now, I’m also going to
have to make a bigger hole in order to use these, so bear with me a second while I do that, and I’ll demonstrate to
you just how effective they are. So, picture this, you’re on the trail, you got this hole that
your tire sealant is not doing the job. (air hissing) Quite a lot of air escaping from it, so you need to find it pretty quick. And then, the idea is
you stab this straight in the hole, out the side of the trail, and it plugs that hole immediately. So, you have to do this once and you have to do this well, but it’s quite hard to get these in. So, push it straight into
the hole of the tire, and then carefully pull
out the applicator fork, and there you go. That is a plug successfully into the tire. So, that has plugged it completely. You don’t just want to
ride off with it hanging out because it’s going to
catch itself somewhere. So, ideally, you want
to have a small knife on your– in your trail pack. And just cut this down, obviously careful not
to cut your casing or anything. And then, you can just give the tire a few spins just to make sure there is a sealant plugging it from the inside, so you know it’s really
going to do its job well. Now, that’s good enough
in a race situation to get going, back on the trail. Literally can stab it straight in. And in fact, there’s some
really handy versions of these kits on the market. So, the Dynaplug ones
come in an aluminum case and they’re preloaded at both ends, and it’s a good (inaudible) so vital, you keep in your hip
pack in your rider bag, or even in a pocket because it’s not a sharp item. Pull the lid off, stab it in, hit the trails. So, really good for race situation. There’s also the Sahmuri swords ones, which are bar-in plugs,
with one of them will be like a holster to hold the spare plugs. The other end has the applicator on it, so, you unscrew it. Bang! In it goes. Hit the trails. Now, there is a few problems this designed product. Now, it does do a quick
fix, but it’s never going to be a good permanent fix. Don’t get me wrong, I
have ridden with these for quite a few months on some tires, but eventually, they do
tend to get pushed out by the tire pressure on the inside. So if you can and you have the time, you want to cut this
rubber fairly flushed, and you want to put some vulcanizing solution on the outside here just to help it bond and stay in place. That’s a really good way of making it last longer and you’re going to get a few more rides out of it. But the best bit really, is something you want
to do when you get back to home. Now, you want to remove the tire from the bike completely, get that tire sealant out of there. Maybe put it in a bowl so you can reuse it afterwards. Clean the inside of the tire. And then you want to patch up the inside of the tire with a proper tire boot exactly where this bit is. Load the vulcanizing solution and put a fresh load on the outside here. Now, I quite like to use Show Goo on the outside. This stuff currently used skate boy shoes. You put it on like your ollie foots you don’t wear out the sole
and the size of your shoes. You’re basically an industrial
vulcanizing solution, but it’s really, really tough. It’s great stuff for
covering these up with. Now, putting the vulcanizing solution or the Shoe Goo on the outside there, is a really good fix to make it a bit more of a permanent repair, but of course, it is just a repair. It’s never going to be good as an original tire. So, you’re going to have to monitor it because from time to time, maybe, it’s going to push it’s way out and you’re going to be left with that hole again, which of course,
means you’re going to have to patch it all over again. Now, when you get home, as I explained, there’s a really good idea if you can boot it from the inside. Now, there’s a few
different options for this. You can get specific tire boots, or you can buy rubber like this, in actual rolls and kits, especially cutting down to your own size, which is what I tend to do. Some really, really good rubber, and it mix really well with the inside lining of the tire. But you have to make sure the tire is completely clean on the inside, and you have to give it a bit of rough down as well because otherwise vulcanizing solution really doesn’t let it sit on there properly. And make sure it’s
completely set and completely dry before you go to reassemble it, because obviously,
you’re going to have wet solution around this,
so you have to make sure you do a proper job on it. Now, also, if it’s such a substantial hole that you’re going to be able to plug it like this– For example, if it’s
on the side wall of the tire. Near enough, that’s toast for your tire, and it’s time to recycle that thing. However, you can– if
you’re persistent enough– get to work and stitch
out the tire side wall. You can stitch it. You apply apply some vulcanizing solution, or in this case, Shoe
Goo on the outside of the tire here. Over the top to give them– – – give those threads a
bit of extra durability. And then boot it from the inside, and then you’ll be able to continue using your tire as a tubeless tire. At least for a few more months, anyway. You might not–you might not get a whole life out of the tire, but it’s certainly better than bending the tire and having to buy a fresh one. So, there you go. It’s that simple to plug a tubeless tire, and of course, don’t
forget you can make it more of a permanent fix by booting it from the inside and putting some glue on the top of it afterwards. Now, it’s up to you to monitor how much sealant is in your tires. So, I do advise you
check from time to time. And of course, make
sure you get some decent tire plugs. There’s various different
ones on the market. Keep them somewhere where
you can get easy access to them, but just bear
in mind, they’re very sticky, so you don’t
want them to get dusty, because it’s actually going to start them working. So, you want to try
and keep these clean in the little pouch. Something like that. For a couple more tubeless related videos, click down here fore Tubeless 101. That’s everything you need to know about setting tubeless, what sealants you need, what valves you need,
how the system works. And click up here if you want to find out how to stitch up a tire side wall. That is the full video. Going to show you all the detailed steps and all of the kit that you’ll need to do to fix that. So, there you go. If you like tubeless and you like fixing tubeless, give us a thumbs up and please subscribe to GMBN Tech.

96 thoughts on “How To Repair Tubeless Tyres | MTB Maintenance”

  1. I have used dh tires for the last 3 years. No more flats. No more worry, no more bs. Bike industry cant make a light tire that doesnt puncture.

  2. With those types of insert tool be careful when storing them somewhere easy to get too.last thing you want is to impale yourself on it .

  3. The Dyna plug is excellent but expensive.the lezyne bridges that gap being close in quality to the Dyna plug but way better than the cheap options .at £18 it's a bargain

  4. How does tubeles system perform in -15C? does the liquid freeze or.. ? Do tyres loose pressure or seal? Does sealent seal small punctures in below zero degrees?

  5. I got a silverline branded plug kit on Amazon and trimmed them down to various lengths and thicknesses. I think the kit was about £9 for the tool and 50 plugs (which after cutting down would probably be around 150+).

  6. I tried using a park tool patch on a wet tire and it didn't work at all. Whoops. Might give the shoe goo and rubber patch he recommended here a try. What kind of rubber do people use?

  7. Went tubeless on a pair of 29 Nobby Nic . Used “Stans no tubes sealant “ . I did this off the back of Doddys vid Tubeless 101. Found it a little fiddly getting new tyres to seat on bead without a boost pump but plenty of soap suds and pumping a bit faster on track pump and core removed from valve. Need to get myself a repair kit but until then I shall carry a inner tube.

    Doddy do you have the links for the repair kits you recommended…

    Great show doddy learnt so much in the last 2 months. ??????

  8. Always used the Panaracer Tubeless Repair Kit (since roughly 2008). Not ideal for quick 'race' fix as you need to glue the plug and let it dry for a few mins, but more than enough for all other 'plugable situations'. Get roughly 20-25 repairs from a kit and they've always outlasted the life of the tyres, never needed to patch them afterwards.

  9. #askgmbntech I have regular stans sealant and some people say you can use co2 to inflate the tyre some don’ you know if you can? Thanks!

  10. At 4:20. I don't understand, you say ''You won't loose any tire pressure'' You removed the valve core thats what keeps the air in how can there be air in the type with the valve coe off? Am I missing something?

  11. I had kept the slug on the tool ready to use for a few months without having to use it, and since the slug wasn’t in the packaging it got kinda dirty and black. Is it still useful?

  12. It is easier to cover the plug of raw rubber with a vulcanizer before pushing it. In general, the same way they repair tubeless automobile tires.

  13. Hey Doddy, we have used those plugs for years on four wheel drive tyres, and a bit of a hint, give the tool a small twist once you have pushed the plug in.

  14. my rear wheel moves left and right a little bit what could it be. i tried ti tighten the wheel but it doesnt do anything

  15. #askGMBNtech how to clean clogged valve cores? Actually my presta valve is from a inner tubes. Its only a diy tubeless. How to i unclogged it if the valve cores are not removable?

  16. What tubeless repair kits are recommended I have the weldtite kit but the rubber bungs just fell into the tyre and was useless.

  17. Hey Doddy, I have one of these sticks in my tire and I ride with it for 6 months now. No problems at all. Before that I tried to fix it with vulcanizing a rubber patch and glue of the outside. It never worked for me. So for now I just leave the sticks in the tire.

  18. the teeth on that little blue handled applicator tool Doddy is using are so close together I struggled to get the bung inserted and was concerned that the applicator would not leave it in the tyre when applied…so my advice is to force the teeth apart a little bit before you take it out on a ride and have to use it… would also recommend upgrading to a dual ply tyre, I swapped from WTB vigilante and trail boss light to the tough versions and have had no sidewall tears since (the light versions are made from tissue paper)

  19. Like always, great video Doddy..but is, not Just for accuracy. Cheers (hey, you said it right, but the writing was wrong)

  20. A few things I have learned about patching/booting the inside of the tire: (1) Brake parts cleaner is very effective for cleaning the away the sealant residue. That's what Stan of Stan's Sealant recommends. (2) Rough the inside of the tire fairly gently unless you want to expose the fabric tire threads. I've learned that the hard way. (3) If I have time or if it is a bigger cut, I will reinstall the tire with a tube to make sure that the patch is adhered really well to the inside of the tire. An hour or so at 50 psi with a tube will press the patch onto the inner wall better than you can ever possibly achieve by pressing with your fingers.

  21. Thx for the tips Doddy. I used the sidewall sewing technique a couple years ago on a nearly new conti raceking sealing it with rubber cement.
    I ran it tubed succesfully several rides. Then decided to see how it sealed and held tubeless and was able to extend the tire life many more rides.

  22. Great video….quick question. The MilkKit valves will work with any tire and valve type? Like gravel tires, presta valves, etc..? Thanks

  23. Surely its best to add the glue / gel to the plug when inserting it? you get a legitimate proper hold then – and you dont get gunk all over your tyre.

  24. Received my brand new Canyon the morning, went on a ride the afternoon, a rock cuts the side and sealant did not plug it. HML

  25. whats the difference between a boot and a regular patch? (the only thing i have noticed is maybe patch is for tube and boot is for tire?)

  26. Hi GMBN! Love the channel btw, I started using tubeless tyres this year (my buddy has finally convinced me tho). I'm new to tubeless stuff on mtb and I wanna ask if I can brush (when cleaning my mtb) my tubeless tyre that has been punctured?

  27. I tried to put the darn patch on, but it ended up on my eye. How do you keep the blasted thing off your eye?

  28. Has anyone tried the plugs used on tubeless car tyres, they look a bit like a rubber mushroom – I’ve seen fitters drill the hole out to the correct size, plug that thing in from the inside. I would have thought they would work well?

  29. i didnt know if man should of done one step but i did them all now my tires bullet proof riding through the hood and someone tried shooting me up bullets bounced right of the tire

  30. Ok so tubes are the way to go cuz all you have to do is change the tube and use the old one as a liner cool thanx

  31. Put some repair glue on the slug before you put it in. Makes the slug much more resistant to getting pushed back out over time.

  32. I've had a pair of slime tubes on my old bike and in the same tyres for almost twenty years and not had a single puncture. Ridden 1000s of miles.
    I get myself a new bike with tubeless tyres and on my very first day riding I get a puncture and it's not sealing. It was a tiny thorn.

  33. Pro tip. Gorilla tape on the inside works perfectly. Clean and dry the tube off, tape it, warm it up with a lighter to melt the glue on, done. That will last the life of the tire. I always have a bit of gorilla tape on my frame and a lighter and a small bit of shop cloth in my kit.?

  34. Can you add some info about the valves. Numerous times over the years I've had problems with the valves getting fouled with sealant so they don't close properly. Creating a slow leak which is quite apparent an hour later on the trail. I periodically take the valve apart and clean them up and this seems to work…to a point. Should I be replacing the valves every couple of years or less?

  35. Those Plugs can be a bit more of a permanent fix if you put some Vulcanizing liquid on them when you do the plug. Makes em slide in a bit easier too. They have a perfect size tube for a trail side fix in a standard tube tire patch kit. I carry fixes for both as you never know when you might need to help a mate.

  36. "let me show you how easy it is to add sealant" ….. Then he pulls out a valve remover, a syringe, and tube…. all things I don't have…..

  37. When I was a teen, I would use destroyed old tubes and cut them up in different sizes and use them to repair the tube or patch the inside of the tire. Make sure you scuff it up good and apply the volcanizing glue.

  38. Pro tip- use the adhesive prior to inserting the plug. Put some around the puncture and some on the plug itself. It will help hold it in if you manage to get it on the plug and inside the tire much better than just applying it on the outside.

  39. This is great. Our host clearly knows what he’s talking about and he’s a great communicator. Thanks! I’m saving this link and thanks also for the 2 additional links on screen. Very handy. Excellent work!

  40. How about demonstrating your removal technique on these tubeless tires on the trail? Let's see how really good you guys are.

  41. Good Video. However, as per "as usual" there is no mention of the environmental impact of these products. Whilst the more considerate MTB rider may try their best to not pollute the environment many are not considering how any waste they leave in the environment may harm wildlife etc.

    "Natural rubber latex cures in air (air within a tyre), therefore it has a natural shelf
    life before it hardens and is difficult to remove. To counteract this, some latex products
    are stabilised with corrosive ammonia!"

    i.e. Choose a eco-friendly product & don't trash the environment in which your enjoying your ride.

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