How To Revive REALLY BAD Headlights! – Chemical Guys

What’s up guys, welcome back to the channel. So today, we are going to work on headlights. I’m going to.


What’s up guys, welcome back to the channel. So today, we are going to work on headlights. I’m going to show you guys how to get your
headlights from this to that. Alright guys, so, like we said, today, we
are working on headlights. This is my not so brand new 2003 Toyota Corolla
Sport. This guy had some pretty jacked up headlights
when I got it. I did that side earlier just to see how good
we can bring them back and they look great, so we are going to show you today how to get
your headlights looking brand new or just better than what they look like now. Alright, so I got a couple of tools here: we have
our TORQ Rotary machine with an orange Hexlogic Pad. We also have some sandpaper, some tape, and
also our awesome Headlight Restorer. So, this is a good one step. There are a lot of people out there at are
like I don’t want to do that many things. This realistically can go onto the machine
and onto this after you wash the area, and you can start fixing the headlight. We are going to take it a step further just
because we have the sandpaper here and it’s going to give you a better result in the end. So, we will get started with this taping because
we don’t want to scratch the Corolla Sport. Alright so you can use any of the painter’s
tape that you have available at your local hardware store or wherever you might have some. Most people have them in their garage or all
that good stuff. Alright, so now that the headlight is done
being taped up, again we are just doing this to protect the paint. There’s not much paint left on this car, but
still, I want to protect what I’ve got left. So just for little protection and… just a little protection. So, now what we are going to do is take our
sandpaper. Today, I have two kinds. So I have this side, which is going to be
our 2500 grit sandpaper and this side here, the grey side, is a 3500 grit sandpaper. So, most of the oxidation you want to take
off with the sandpaper. It’s going to be like your big workhorse. It’s the one that’s going to take the most
of the stuff off and do most of the job for you. Again, this is wet sanding. Don’t dry sand because that’s not good for
business. But you want to be generous with the water. Spray your sandpaper as well and I like starting
at the top. Keep the water bottle in your hand. So, what you see all this stuff running off
is the oxidation on the plastic. So it’s pretty much the layer of plastic that’s
died off and been burnt by the sun. You’re scraping that stuff off, exfoliating
it, so it reveals that new fresh plastic underneath. We’ll refine this with the 3500 grit sandpaper. It will make it a little bit better and then
we will hit it with our machine at the very end. So what I like to do here is I like to go
in one direction for most of the time and once you start seeing that the oxidation isn’t
coming off as much, I’ll start to cross hatch and get anything that I couldn’t get off on the
first pass or the first couple of passes. So, we’re about done here with this guy. I’ll go up and down to make sure I get any
left over oxidation off of the headlight. Again, you don’t have to do this step, but
doing this step is going to give you a better end result which is obviously what we’re looking
for. So, what I’m doing now is wiping any residual
oxidation off the headlight and as you can see, it’s dulled out. So, good and bad. Good as far as it’s gotten most of the oxidation
off of that headlight, bad because, well, it looks like this. It doesn’t look clear. Again, we will come back, we’ll refine all
this stuff to make sure it’s clear at the very end. So now what I’m doing is I’m going to use
our finer sand paper. So this is 3500 grit and this is going to
refine all those scratches I did with the previous sandpaper and really give you a great
end result. So, we’ll start in the same way and as you
can see, there is a lot less of the oxidation that is coming off. You are still getting some because you’re
obviously scraping the headlight, which is made of plastic, with sandpaper but not as
bad as it was initially. Alright, and we’re just about done here. So now, all I’m going to do is take some water
again, spray it down and wipe off wipe off any excess so when I go over it with the machine,
I’m not picking that stuff up and really messing my headlight up. Alright, so now , the next step is we’re going
to take our TORQ Rotary and our Headlight Restorer. Today, we are going to be using an orange
HexLogic pad and it’s going to give you a very nice and even cut. Shake up our product here. Give it a couple of sprays with our Polishing
Pad Conditioner and we will just blotch out the area. Obviously, this is not a very big area so
we can do the whole thing. You don’t have to break it down into two sections. It’s also going to give you a better end result
because if you’re doing it all in one pass, it does the whole headlight instead of having
to break it into half. It gives you better results. So, as you can see, the product still needs
to get worked in. There is specific working time for this product-
it’s pretty much until it clears out. Once it clears out, it lets you know that
hey, the product’s been worked in. Go ahead and wipe it down, inspect, whether
you have to give it another pass or not is really up to you. I normally do because it gives it a better
shine and it’s a lot more clear at the very end. we’ll go in one direction and now what I’ll
do is crosshatch and come back and make sure that I knock off anything that’s left over
and then we will see the end result. So, as you can see, it’s cleared out. That tells me that hey, the product has been
worked in. Give it a good wipe down. Now, keep in mind that when you’re doing this,
you don’t want to apply too much pressure. You are using a rotary machine. You can also substitute that machine by using
a drill. Still, not so much pressure because if you
do, this is an 03, the headlights have seen some action. It’s pretty old, so they can get brittle and
actually break. So, no pressure, just nice, light, going over
in cross hatching pattern and you get this result. So, if you liked this video, please like and
subscribe and we will see you next time right here in the Detail Garage.

30 thoughts on “How To Revive REALLY BAD Headlights! – Chemical Guys”

  1. Meh itโ€™s good but I have an 03 saab 9-3 with hazy lenses I took them apart added some halo rgb lighting to the eye and once I put it back together I took the time of actually sanding the thing and clear coating a lot better than using product every like two months and it just keeps the car looking nice

  2. Need CLEAR COAT or you'll be doing this process again in 3 to 6 months… Makes sure the CLEAR COAT is labeled "UV PROTECTION" as well! ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ‘

  3. Ya'll should do a video on the hood! My pickup looks like that & I used my DA on it.. Bandaid I know.. But it's a difference & I wld love to see how you would work on it..

  4. Do I have to use the headlight restore polish? I canโ€™t use a different one or course a CG one just like a cutting one or a polish?

  5. If you're starting wetsanding with 2500 grit, you simply can not claim that your headlights are bad. I was in a situatuon a few times to start with 240 grit and then working up to 3000 and polish. That's a bad headlight.

  6. I got a 04 Corolla it's my baby I always give it TLC, question Did you use a Sealant like Jet Seal at the end of polishing! And how many applications did you do to bring out that shine!!

  7. Hey Chemical Guys, whats the difference between Foaming Citrus Fabric Clean Carpet & Upholstery Shampoo & Odor Eliminator and Lightning Fast Carpet & Upholstery Stain Extractor? I am guessing Foaming citrus is just kind of an APC and lighting fast is for deeper stains? sorry no relation to this video

  8. โ˜บ๏ธ u can try plastx if its minor but if its bad maybe try one of the stronger pro creams from these guys, u might try a super fine sand paper too, when done spray on some headlite protectant ๐Ÿ˜

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