Mustang Fuel Pump Install: BBK Fuel Pump 255 Lph (86-97)

SPEAKER: We’re going to start out by removing the fuel pump assembly from the original tank. We’re going to be.

SPEAKER: We’re going to start
out by removing the fuel pump assembly from the original tank. We’re going to be going
back in with a BBK 1607 255-liter-per-hour fuel pump. It comes with all the hardware
and wiring connections you need to install it
back in your Mustang. Now, you can use a small
flat-blade screwdriver and remove the plastic clip that
holds on the supply jumper line to the fuel pump assembly. And then use your
fuel line remover tool to go ahead and remove the fuel
return line from the fuel pump assembly. Unplug your
electrical connector. Remove the lock ring. Then lift the fuel pump
assembly from the tank. The sock was no longer attached
to the bottom of the pump because the baffle had moved
around so much it tore it off. Our fuel pump has
already been replaced at some point in its life. But the connectors
on a stock fuel pump will look just like this. Now, to remove
your fuel pump, you want to remove the two fasteners
on the side of the assembly. That way you can gain
access to the pump. Remove the hose. Remove the filter sock. And remove the pump
from the hanger. All right, with the fuel pump
removed from the fuel pump assembly, we can
go ahead and unhook the electrical connection. If your new fuel pump comes
with a new electrical connector, go ahead and cut
the wires coming out of the fuel pump assembly. Grab your new
electrical connector and the butt connectors
supplied with the fuel pump. Cut the connector
pigtail to length. And use the supplied
butt connectors to attach it to the wiring
on the fuel pump assembly. Now you can plug in
your new fuel pump. Remove the red protective cap
off the bottom of the pump. And remove the gray protective
cap off the top of the pump. Grab the small rubber
insulator and slide it onto the pump inlet. And then grab your S hose. And if required,
cut it to length. Attach the hose to the
fuel pump assembly. Tighten it down with one
of the supplied clamps. Slide the fuel pump outlet
into the other side of the hose and attach it with the
other supplied clamp. Put your fuel pump
back into the assembly. And reinstall the screws for
the side of the assembly. With the assembly completely
tightened back down and the pump in place, you can
attach your fuel pump strainer sock. With your fuel pump assembly
completely put back together, you can go ahead and fold
the sock into the tank. And then slide the pump
assembly into place. You can take a peek through
the filler neck hole and make sure that
the sock and pump find their way into the
baffle properly. Slide the O-ring onto
the fuel pump assembly in between the
assembly and the tank. Put your lock ring into place. And tap it into the
locked position. We’ve got our new
BBK 1607 255 liter per hour fuel pump
installed in the tank. And the tank is ready
to go back into the car. Now, you definitely want to
replace your filler neck seal with our 5.0 Resto replacement. And another thing to
consider is the filler neck to trunk floor seal, which
is often torn or rotted away. We’ve got you covered with
a 5.0 Resto replacement. For more fuel system parts
and other installation videos, check out

22 thoughts on “Mustang Fuel Pump Install: BBK Fuel Pump 255 Lph (86-97)”

  1. Hey LRS I have a question my mustang has a new fuel pump 155 lph from walbro it was working fine until yesterday it just lost power it cranks but wont turn over. And now when I turn the key in on position I cant hear the fuel pump chime anymore?! I noticed that my old fuel pump assembly had a slight cut through the skin on the red wire exposing the inside of the wires. Could my fuel pump assembly be the problem? Also if the fuel pump assembly goes bad can it kill my fuel pump?

  2. Hey LRS thanks for the response turns out it was the fuel pump assembly/bracket it had a short on the red wire so I replaced the assembly and the pump and its up and running now. So any fox/sn-95 5.0 owners owners out there that are going to replace the fuel pump I highly highly recommend the fuel pump bracket assembly and the fuel pump combo and if you can fuel relays too that way you save a lot of time and headaches.

  3. 255 LPM is overkill for a factory vehicle but with return style fuel systems this wouldn't be problem.

  4. What about the wiring harness replacement? A 255 will cook the fuse links and melt the OEM wiring harness. Replace all of it all the way to the battery and install a new solenoid under the seat or just put a manual toggle switch in instead.

  5. im just here to find out how the heck i open the gas cap of my 93 Mustang LX, how the hell am i going to get gas into my car if i dont even know how the fuck to open the godamn gas cap

  6. do you have to remove the orange rubber cap on the second line and what is it for?? can someone help me?

  7. i have a 89 mustang, it had a 2.3 L in it. put a 302 with a bigger cam, and put a 650cfm duel line carb on it. what need to know is can i use the the same fuel pump in tank. by just getting a bigger pump to go in tank are well i need to get a after market fuel pump. and the fuel lines too. i would like to be able to have the fuel gauge to work too. if any of that makes any scents.

  8. I have noticed on my factory fuel pump bracket at the bottom where the filter sock is fastened there is a small metal tab. Is this tab there to correct the position of the filter sock into the baffle of the fuel tank. Does it matter how the filter sock is positioned within the baffle as long as it fits inside the baffle. What does the metal tab serve? Does it help keep the filter sock in place and position the sock a certain way within the tank baffle? Can the metal tab be bent up to position the sock long ways in the baffle.

  9. Should I buy this for my fox? Because I wanna go with a 100/150 shot.. I have 24lb injectors gtp heads e303 cam and full exhaust plus headers and cold air intake…

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