Hey guys and welcome back to Retro Recipes So, here I have my Commodore 64 which I recently refurbished But there’s one little problem that’s been niggling away for the last year or two And popping up every now and then So once in a while when I boot up the machine, the basic display will look like this There are characters, they’re either missing or have turned the same color as the background Now, that would imply to me that the issue was the color RAM Chip Which is a fairly common fault with these machines I mean, there’s been 35 years after all so I forgive it But another issue that I’ve seen, which may be related, is when I play some games For example, this one Alice in Videoland You can see and what kind of an evil entity could give Alice spots like this Don’t think she was even teenager at that point Now, that could, again, be the Color RAM Chip But there’s only one way to find out for sure And that’s to run some Diagnostic Test Cartridges So, that’s what I’m gonna do okay Okay, so, I’m using EasyFlash 2 Cartridge Which enables me to run a series of different diagnostic cartridges from one place So, let’s start off with Diag C64 So checking through the screen RAM at the moment That’s okay RAM Test1 Also, okay! RAM Test2 Also, okay Now, the PLA Seems to be okay, OK, PLA Now, the color RAM Now, this is my suspicion It says it’s okay! Now, one of these strange things is …(random SID sound) ..being interrupted by SID here Mute, you! One of the strange things is, I have ran this Color RAM test before and it’s come out bad So there’s either an intermittent fault, or it could be temperature related I did have a bit fit the tiny heat sync to the Color RAM Chip As you may have seen on my Refurb Video and that may have been helping things Anyway, let’s try a different cartridge The other one, not Diag C64 but C64 Diag, Ehh.. easily confused Zero Page, OK. Stack Page, OK. Color RAM, OK.. okay. 64-K RAM.. Everything looks okay Keyboard Joystick, BAD U1 Now, those eagle-eyed viewers who saw the previous test would have spotted an issue with U1 The other cartridge, so let’s just flip back to that Okay, so as mentioned It’s showing U1 and U2 as being bad Also, U18, which is the SID Chip I haven’t had any problems with sound But U1 and U2 are the CIA Chips As you may know, it’s actually the same chip in both sockets And they are inter exchangeable So. U1 does seem to be on number one of it Which is probably why it’s called U1 Let’s get a final, 4th opinion here from DeadTest A very ominous sounding cartridge With an ominous font Zero Page, OK. Stack Page… …the suspense is going to make us dead Well, it’s okay What’s happened?? Hellooo? So, Color Ram is okay Sound test is going on silently, it’s muted right now Well, this one looks okay too For me it’s looking like U1 is what we’re gonna have to replace We can start with that just for completeness and cuz it would bug me, otherwise I’m gonna also replace, U2 Or at least socket U2, so they both look the same I don’t think we have to worry about the Color RAM just yet So let’s get on with the repair! I will see you on the workbench (German accent) Hi! It’s Jan Beta It’s not really! It’s Perifractic! Alright, so let’s get unscrewing this machine Okay, so these are U1 and U2 Not like the band These ones don’t make excellent music You’re confusing that with the SID chip But they are marked here, U1, U2 CIA Chips, in other words, and that stands for Complex Interface Adapter These are responsible for interfacing with the I/O ports, the joystick ports, that kind of thing But it does mean they’re very susceptible to static electricity, damaging them So, if you were to have static discharge come from your fingertip, like Harry Potter or something, and you were to touch maybe the user port or joystick port particularly, you could damage the chip So that’s why it’s a very common fault So let’s turn the board over and see if we can desolder these little things After we’ve unscrewed all of the screws Now, I have static discharged myself, and that’s something that I do regularly throughout the process You don’t want to introduce yet another fault having just cured one So, I’m gonna moisten my sponge (chuckles) Please hold the line Okay, the sponge has been moistened So I’m gonna do a few things with the soldering iron just to prepare for this, to make sure that we get the best possible heat conductivity That’s gonna enable us to easily desolder these pins Here, indeed, is my soldering iron This is the one I recommend, The X-Tronic 3020 It heats up in seconds, it’s pretty amazing! So, if you look at the tip of the iron, it’s a little dirty So I have here some TIp Tinner Then I’ll put a link to this stuff, as well as a link to this soldering iron, below I do find this invaluable Some people say you don’t need it But if you can look at how beautifully that has burned away any corrosion and prepared the tip for soldering Yeah, really it can’t hurt at all I find that it makes things better Then I’m gonna clean the tip, just to remove any excess And what you could also do between those, is clean it on the sponge Now, we introduce the solder sucker So this you just activate the pump, push this button, and it sucks the solder that is currently melted under the soldering iron, into itself So let’s get started So now you can see instantly that that has desoldered this pin Now something to keep in mind when you’re working with this older solder, pardon the rhyming slang there, is it can contain and probably does contain lead Now people say this doesn’t evaporate or melt until several hundred degrees fahrenheit However, just to be careful, I’ve opened the window and turned on the fan So, apologies if you hear any background sound And just to make this a little easier.. I’m going to use a Flux Pen So, this is good for reworking solder And it helps with the transfer of heat and also removes oxidation To push down just to get the flux going There it is Just draw it on there I’m actually going to turn this around because the pins seem to be favoring one direction Not a band that I like But in this case, it’s going to help us to heat up in the angle that the pins are actually facing See how those are coming out of the holes really easily And 40 pins to go Just now and then when the ease is starting to fade, I am retinning the tip of the soldering iron Just to aid in that conduction again And now and then you have to remove the sucked solder from this sucker Sometimes if one is being stubborn, you can heat the pin and then instead of sucking with the sucker at an angle, you can just let go and suck it up straight like that It’s pulled a lot of solder up through there So I’ll keep tinning.. keep sucking We do have some traces here, so we have to be super careful around this area So I’m gonna switch to a smaller, finer tip So I’ve tinned the tip and you can see the corrosion, any oxidation bubbling away there And a little more tin And we will get back to work Very fast sucker, needs a clean-out Yeah Melt. Suck. Whoa! That’s almost too much Interestingly, the sucker was then tinning the soldering iron for me Not sure if that’s a intended behavior But we will keep removing these little parcels of leaded 1980’s solder So we’ve got our system down now It is a smaller tip and fuller suction That was the key If any of you are a little nervous about soldering or would rather not do this but want some mods or repairs done, suppose now’s as good a time as any, as I mention that I do offer repairs and mods And you can (coughs) while I choke on the lead You can find the contact info under this video in the description And see if this thing wants to come out And for that I’m gonna use the specialist tool, which is the chip removal tool Let’s just hope we’ve desoldered the correct chip There she is! Came out in one piece No bent legs These are so well desoldered, you can actually sell this If it wasn’t faulty, in this condition So Next up, we want to socket this area My motto is if it looks good, it probably works good Just about putting care into things And treating things with the respect that you would want them to treat with you with And if I was ever refurbished by a Commodore 64, I would want it to take some care Particularly with my hair Okay, now we have our clean, shiny Actually. Shiny. That reminds me.. We’ve got some alcohol wipes here There we go Now, next up lil box of treats here Candy! Not really We just need a 40 pin DIL socket otherwise known as a DIP socket If you see them called different things sometimes, some people say it means exactly the same and some say that DIL was originally a ceramic type Whereas DIP, P meaning plastic Not sure what ‘L’ stood for Leprechauns! I mean, I don’t know So we should be able to just drop this in to our nicely desoldered pins As the notch is there to help you translate where the notch of the actual chip goes So we’ll get that right I’m just soldering that one and this one first cuz that’s gonna help hold things in place Check everything’s looking nice on this side Got to the end and I was like, ‘how did that get soldered?!’ I did it earlier Remove any excess flux Then we have our soldered U1 CIA socker Now, we have two options here We could, as I said earlier, unsolder this too and put a socket in However, there’s always the chance you break something If it ain’t broke, don’t try and fix it On second thoughts.. I’m going to go to my stockpile of spare chips And see if I have a matching replacement here This is a 6526, it was manufactured in week 29 of 1983 And it’s Revision 4 And.. Look at that! Slightly earlier, 6526, Revision 4 Now, these are known to all be working And this one is the one that diagnostic test said was faulty So, what we can do.. is pop this in the socket, and return to that diagnostic test and see if things still report errors Or if the problem is fixed So once you get all the pins in and just double-check they’re all lined up, just firm pressure straight down That is now a socketed CIA chip Let’s go try it out! Okay, so, I only connected the board and the keyboard Let’s go try it on and turn it up! Try it out and turn it out.. turn.. let’s turn it on..and try it out Okay. That’s a good start! C64 Diag Interesting Bad U1 We could have two bad chips Or there could be an error somewhere else Could even be U2 U1 and U2 still reporting bad here Let’s try Dead Test (sneezes) Excuse me Think I’m allergic to death Well we’re still getting the same results So, unlikely, though, it is, I’m gonna replace the U1 with the second spare that I have Just in case the first spare was faulty Bad U1 So that’s three chips we’ve tried Well, I think the only thing to try now is switch out U2, as well And see if we were getting some sort of interplay of the errors there Wish me luck?! Okay, so I now have two socketed CIA chips Looking very neat and tidy in there So let’s give them a try Bad U1 That is strange! U1 and U2 still showing it’s bad So, what I’m gonna do is switch out the U1 and U2 that were originally in there, into the alternate positions So, U1 and U2 will become U2 and U1 Just a lot easier now that they are socketed C64 Diag Yep Bad U1 So that tells me that all the other tests are gonna result in U1 and bad U2, as well Basically nothing’s changed Now on the plus side, we now have some socketed chips, which we didn’t have before So that’s useful and looks nice, and if we ever have to change them in the future for a real reason It’s gonna be easier to do However, you can see just under the SID chip there, that I have my heatsinks on my Color RAM Chip You can wear it like a scarf and just point out, ‘this is the Color RAM right here.’ Now what I’m going to do.. because my original suspicion was that the Color RAM was giving issues, especially because of the nature of those character.. garbage characters.. and the fact that I get one time see a Color RAM error on one of those cartridges Just gonna swap that out, socket it and see if that resolves our U1 issues, at least And because all normal games, apart from that Color RAM issue, do run properly and correctly And.. Since I put the heatsink on the Color RAM, I’ve not seen that issue return So I think we may have.. nothing wrong with our U1, U2 CIA Chips and a Color RAM that doesn’t like to run hot So, I’ll switch it out, and we’ll see what happens Here’s our Color RAM First thing we have to do, course take me heatsink off And we do have the replacement Somewhere.. Here it is. You can get this and lots of other replacement parts from Retroleum I’ll put a link below the video Okay. Now another good technique just before turning the board over, is to push each pin and just make sure that they spring back If they do, that means they’re probably free Now and then we get a little gift from the solder sucker See if we can get this sucker free Much, Oh! Much easier than the CIA chips A notch at the top Beautiful! Can start soldering the opposing corners That’s just my little technique to keep it in position I like.. it’s nice! Being with the new Color RAM, no heatsink required There it is! Okay Well this board is certainly, if nothing else, had a socketing, riveting experience Let’s go try out this new Color RAM! Well, at least the new Color RAM is okay, as well This one is, hopefully, less susceptible to overheating Bad U1 U1, U2, U18, all the same. What I will do however, is now test Alice in Wonderland and see if she still has acne You look good, Alice! Now, I did get some issues when I connect with joystick No such issues No such issues Well, while Alice loads, I think we’ll call this a minor success And there’s still a bit of a mystery Definitely the Color RAM issue is not currently happening you can say that much for sure! And we have some nice socketed, sockets As for you Alice, will leave her in her Wonderland Maybe I’ll help her find her way out If you have any ideas what could be causing the U1/U2 issues Apart from Bono Then let me know drop me a comment below Maybe we’ll end up doing another video if there’s something interesting that we can try Until then, I’m just going to enjoy all the games that seem to be working And please like, subscribe, and share this video if you want to see more like this! Until next time, Cheerio!