Old House Renovation – How do you renovate a House??? Part 2 | P1V5 | ShortWorx

This time I’ll be continuing with the house rebuild, building walls, drywalling, replacing joists and fitting the rest of the.


This time I’ll be continuing with the house
rebuild, building walls, drywalling, replacing joists and fitting the
rest of the doors. I’m starting by building the knee walls underneath
the bedroom windows 2 x 4s for the structure, held together with
100mm screws. I thought it would be easier to assemble the
walls on the floor, then move them into position. Diagonal braces in the corners keep the frame
square whilst fixing the intermediate studs. I’m securing the new stucture to the old with
100mm screws… …making sure to hit studs and existing joists.
Checking for level, as I go. Next I’m securing battens to the walls for
drywall. Drilling pilot holes… …then fixing with plugs and screws. I want to increase the insulation within the
wall… …so I’m filling the void with 100mm mineral
wool. With the insulation in place, i’m covering
it with a vapour barrier. Joints are sealed with building tape or acoustic
sealant. Same in the void above… …insulation followed by a vapour barrier. All the ceilings are being overboarded… …and fixed with 60mm screws. I cut the board by scoring the back… …flipping it over and snapping along the
score line. Finally cutting through paper. Theres now a hole in the floor where the chimney
use to be… …and 2 joists are no longer supported. I need to remove the floorboards, so I’m cutting
along the tongues. I really should remember the dust collector. The crosscuts are staggered across the josts…and
the boards are pryed up These boards will be reused so I’m trying
not to damage them. The joists are now free so I can pull them
out. This trimmer joist needs to be doubled up,
so I’m reusing part of the old joists. The new joists will sit on joist hangers at
one end… …and rest on the wall at the other end. Next, I’m fitting the rest of the doors. The top hinges are set 150mm down… …I measure the width and score the outlines. The bulk of the material is removed with a
router… …and neatened up with a chisel. I’ve drilled small pilot holes for the screws,
and then fixed the hinges. The process is repeated on the door frames. A router with an edge guide keeps the mortices
consistant. The door is lifted up on shims and secured
in place with 1 screw per hinge. I’ll add the rest later. To fit the door handles I measure down from
the top… …drill a hole for the latch… …score along the parimeter… …remove the bulk with the router… …and neaten up with a chisel. Next I’m drilling a hole for the handle shaft… …fitting the latch… …and securing the handle. I’ve located the latch position on the frame… …drilling a clearence hole… …removing the bulk with the router… …and neated up. The door stops are made from 9mm MDF. I’ve wet the frame and applied a thin layer
of polyurethene glue… …then secured with 16ga nails. These small block will provide a fixing point
for the skirting. I’m fixing them with adhesive, ensuing they’re
straight and square. All the trim is made from MDF sheets… …rough cut on the floor… …and cut to size on the table saw. MDF calls for double dust extraction. I’m marking the trim reveal on the door frames… …then marking the mitre direction. I’m applying adhesive to the back of the trim… …and securing with 16ga nails. Polyurethane glue in the mitres should help
keep them together. So the costs so far… Pipework was 80
Pipefittings were 95 Doors & Windows were 2,015
Drywall was 545 Professional Plasterer was 2,415
and an addisional Radiator was 35 Se the cost of this stage of the project was
5,185… and the cost so far is 121,040.

One thought on “Old House Renovation – How do you renovate a House??? Part 2 | P1V5 | ShortWorx”

  1. Wish you would of gone into more detail with the door frames. How are you managing to check for level when securing against brick? I notice you have shimmed them out so that must be the method to get them plumb but what about finish plaster did you leave gaps for plasterboard or are you intending to replace existing plaster with a skim? Have the same issues with door frames that go into the ceiling void i am wondering if i can cut them all the way out from the loft down thus enabling me to add some height to frame to fit the new standard of door sizes without too much cutting down. Currently its 1981×762 but once you take into account for carpet your losing 20-30mm and having to replace the bottom of the door with new timber so it would make sense to have the frame that little extra in height of 2013mm. Just wondering your thoughts on this. They really made old houses in an awkard way even though its somewhat superior to today in terms of made to stay put 😀

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