Project Blue Collar: Complete Mustang Fuel System Upgrade (79-93)

Unfortunately, we do have to replace the fuel tank in Project Blue Collar, because the baffle is completely separated from.


Unfortunately, we do have
to replace the fuel tank in Project Blue Collar, because
the baffle is completely separated from the
tank in our original. Now we’ll show you how
to transfer everything from your original
tank to the new tank. And luckily, these
exact same steps can be used even if
you’re replacing the fuel pump, or the sending unit,
on your existing tank. All right. We’re going to start out
by removing the fuel pump assembly from the original tank. Now you can use a small
flat blade screwdriver, and remove the plastic clip that
holds on the supply jumper line to the fuel pump assembly. And then use your
fuel line remover tool to go ahead and move the fuel
return line from the fuel pump assembly. Unplug your
electrical connector, remove the lock ring, then
lift the fuel pump assembly from the tank. The sock was no longer attached
to the bottom of the pump, because the baffle had moved
around so much it tore it off. All right, with your fuel pump
assembly removed from the tank, you can go to your workbench,
lay everything out, to replace your fuel pump. Now I wanted to point out the
differences in the fuel pump assembly that you might see. On the fuel pump assembly
that came out of Project Blue Collar, you have the supply
tube that comes all the way out, and you have just a short
piece of rubber hose that connects to the pump. The more common
style is like this, where the supply line
come straight down. And you use the S-type hose
that comes with your fuel pump. Now every fuel pump comes
with this S-type hose. If you have the short
link, like we have here, you just cut it down. We’re going to be going back
in with BBK-1607 255 liter per hour fuel pump. It comes with all the hardware
and wiring connections you need to install it
back in your Mustang. Our fuel pump has
already been replaced at some point in its life, but
the connectors on a stock fuel pump, will look just like this. Now to remove your
fuel pump, you want to remove the two fasteners
on the side of the assembly. That way you can gain
access to the pump. Remove the hose. Remove the filter sock. And remove the pump
from the hanger. All right, with the fuel pump
removed from the fuel pump assembly, we can
go ahead and unhook the electrical connection. If your new fuel pump comes
with a new electrical connector, go ahead and cut
the wires coming out of the fuel pump assembly. Grab your new
electrical connector, and the butt connector
supplied with the fuel pump. Cut the connector
pig tail to length. And use the supplied
butt connectors to attach it to the wiring
on the fuel pump assembly. Now you can plug-in
your new fuel pump. Remove the red protective cap
off the bottom of the pump. And remove the grey protective
cap off the top of the pump. Grab the small rubber
insulator, and slide it on to the pump inlet. And then grab your S-hose, and
if required, cut it to length. Attach the hose to the
fuel pump assembly. Tighten it down with one
of the supplied clamps. Slide the fuel pump outlet into
the other side of the hose. And attach it with the
other supplied clamp. Put your fuel pump
back into the assembly, and reinstall the screws for
the side of the assembly. With the assembly completely
tightened back down, and the pump in place, you can
attach your fuel pump strainer sock. All right, with your fuel
pump assembly completely put back together,
you can go ahead and fold the stock
into the tank. And then slide the pump
assembly into place. You can take a peek through
the filler neck hole, and make sure that the
socket and pump find their way into the
baffle properly. Slide the O-ring onto
the fuel pump assembly, in between the
assembly and the tank. Put your lock ring into place,
and tap it into position. To remove the sending
unit from your fuel tank, you want to start by unclipping
the electrical connector. Then tapping the lock ring
to the unlocked position. Then you can lift the
sending unit out of the tank. All right, we’ve got our
new 5.0 Resto fuel tank sending unit that fits
’87 to ’97 Mustang. It comes with a new O-ring,
and a new lock ring. So whether you’re going into
your old tank, or a brand new one, it has you covered. Installation is simple. All you got do is slide
it down into the tank, place your O-ring in the groove,
and then lock your lock ring down into place. All right. The last couple parts we need
to remove from our old fuel tank to transfer over the new one
is the vapor valve and hose. Possibly the seal. If your seal’s messed up, we
have new ones on our website. And the harness. Now, both are easy to remove. You just pop up the
vapor valve out of place, and you can remove the seal. And then you can pry
the little retainer off the lip of the fuel tank
that holds the harness on. And then you can transfer
them to the new tank. All right. To finish up the
fuel tank before it’s ready to go back
into the car, you want to go ahead and install
your vapor valve seal, whether you’re reusing the old
one or putting in a new one. Snap it into place, then you can
snap the vapor valve and hose into place. Grab your new fuel neck filler
seal, slide it in the tank. And this is something
you want to replace, even if you’re
reusing your old tank. Then grab your
electrical harness. Click the retainer onto
the pinch weld to the tank. Connect your sending unit. And then connect your fuel pump. Grab your two supply
and return jumper hoses. Snap the return hose
onto its connector. And then slide the supply
hose onto its connector. And lock it down into place
with the plastic retainer that was included with
your new fuel pump. All right. On your original gas
tank, you have a hole where the filler neck
support bolt would go. On your new gas tank, you
cannot drill that hole because of where they
put the pinch weld. Now a quick solution is just to
use a flat washer on the filler neck support, and then you
can slide it on the tank pinch weld, and then just
tighten the bolt down. And that will at least give
it the support it needs. All right. We’ve got our fuel tank
completely put back together, and ready to go into the car. Completely optional step,
transfer the insulator pads from the original
tank to the new one. And definitely do not forget
your 5.0 Resto filler neck seal, vapor valve seal, and
the filler neck to trunk floor seal. Now for more fuel system
parts and install videos, check out
latemodelrestoration.com.

9 thoughts on “Project Blue Collar: Complete Mustang Fuel System Upgrade (79-93)”

  1. Question I changed my gas leveler unit in January. Been working. Now I filled it this time and topped it off. You know after it clicks to make it even like 38.00 dollars for example and now it's reading inaccurate. Like I went to the pump with it the needle on the 3rd line and it took 8.625 gallons that deff. Doesn't seem rite. What could it be?

  2. Do you guys sell fuell cell that fit where the fuel tank goes??? I hear that the 1995 Cobra R came whith one. I wanna make my Stang safer since i cruse wih my kids and a lady where i live got rear ended and the tank exploded killing her, my kids love the car, i just wanna feel better going out with the knowing that if i get rear ended my kids will be safe.

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